Original: $34.99
-65%$34.99
$12.25The Story
The Pro Sportfisher Salmon Tube Tying Kit bundles the brand's proven tube-fly components into a tidy, ready-to-tie package. You get the core pieces needed to build salmon tubes that cast cleanly, track straight, and let you match hook size and style to conditions without rebuilding the fly. The parts interface precisely, so cones, weights, and hook guides seat securely and survive cold-water abuse.
Typical kits center on Pro Sportfisher's interchangeable tube system: a mix of body tubes (often FlexiTube or Classic styles in salmon-friendly diameters), hook guides/junction tubing in key sizes, a selection of cones and discs (Turbo Cones and/or Sonic Discs), and slide-on weights. Color assortments usually cover clear, black, orange, chartreuse, and hot spots like fluoro red or yellow. Depending on how you proportion your patterns, there is generally enough material to tie a couple of dozen flies in multiple sizes.
How to Use It
Mount a tube on a tube needle or mandrel, flare a small back collar with a lighter if needed, and slide on any weight you plan to use. Build the fly as you would on a shank—tail/wing, body, rib, hackle, and throat—keeping head space for hardware. Slide on your chosen cone or disc, add a small drop of varnish or UV resin to seat it, then briefly kiss the front with heat to create a micro-flange that locks everything in place. For summer flies, run unweighted or with a light brass disc; for cold, pushy water, step up to heavier brass or tungsten-style cones and add a raw weight.
Finish by pushing a hook guide onto the back of the tube so it covers the rear flare. Thread your leader through the tube, tie on a short-shank single, double, or treble, and pull the knot into the guide so the hook rides just behind the dressing. This modular approach lets you swap hooks, adjust total length, and fine-tune sink rate without retying the fly.
Example Flies
Sunray Shadow Tube: A long, slim, high-mobility pattern for clear to slightly colored water. Tie on a light plastic tube with a black underwing and a long, mobile black or natural hair overwing, finished with a small Sonic Disc to keep the wing off the tube and stabilize the track. In low, warm flows go cone-less for maximum lift; in colder conditions add a small brass Turbo Cone and a short raw weight to keep it sub-surface without killing the swim. Fish it from 1.5 to 4 inches of total wing length with a size 6–8 single behind.
Temple Dog Willie Gunn: A classic black/yellow/orange Scandinavian color-way that loves peat-stained rivers. Build on a medium tube with a touch of flash, palmered spey hackle for life, and finish with a small or medium Turbo Cone to push water and flare the wing. Add a small internal weight for spring flows. Swap hook sizes 4–8 to match river height; the cone's turbulence keeps the wing alive on a slow swing.
Frances Tube: A compact, bottom-searching prawn-style tube for cold, heavy water. Use a short tube with a slim dubbed or floss body, stiff feelers, and a tungsten-leaning cone or a heavier raw weight slid onto the tube before tying. Keep the silhouette tight and the overall length short so it drops into buckets quickly; pair with a strong size 6–8 double hook and short leader to reduce leverage during the fight.
Cascade Tube: Bright, high-contrast black/yellow/orange with a touch of silver that excels in medium clarity. Tie on a light tube with a hot butt, silver body, soft throat hackle, and finish under a small brass conehead. In higher water, extend the tube length slightly and add a medium cone; in summer lows, shorten the dressing and go disc-only for more lift.
Why We Like It
The system is modular and predictable. Cones, discs, and hook guides fit the tubes cleanly, so you can switch from ultra-light summer tubes to deep-search winter profiles using the same tying workflow. Materials are durable in cold water, and the cones—especially Turbo Cones—create consistent turbulence that makes wings breathe without needing bulky hackle.
It also speeds up production. Pre-sized tubes and slide-on weights remove guesswork, and the color assortment covers the key salmon signals out of the box. Because the fly is decoupled from the hook, you fight fish on a short, strong hook that can be replaced instantly, extending the life of each pattern.
Comparable Materials
Eumer’s tube system offers a similar Scandinavian approach with solid brass cones and a wide tube diameter range; it’s rugged and widely available, though the fit between parts can vary slightly across batches. HMH’s Tube Fly Starter setups are versatile and budget-friendly, with mandrels and generic tubing that accept many brands’ cones, but they require more tinkering to match diameters. Compared with both, the Pro Sportfisher kit emphasizes tighter tolerances and hydrodynamic cones/discs (like Turbo and Sonic) that make it easier to achieve repeatable action across sizes.
Description
The Pro Sportfisher Salmon Tube Tying Kit bundles the brand's proven tube-fly components into a tidy, ready-to-tie package. You get the core pieces needed to build salmon tubes that cast cleanly, track straight, and let you match hook size and style to conditions without rebuilding the fly. The parts interface precisely, so cones, weights, and hook guides seat securely and survive cold-water abuse.
Typical kits center on Pro Sportfisher's interchangeable tube system: a mix of body tubes (often FlexiTube or Classic styles in salmon-friendly diameters), hook guides/junction tubing in key sizes, a selection of cones and discs (Turbo Cones and/or Sonic Discs), and slide-on weights. Color assortments usually cover clear, black, orange, chartreuse, and hot spots like fluoro red or yellow. Depending on how you proportion your patterns, there is generally enough material to tie a couple of dozen flies in multiple sizes.
How to Use It
Mount a tube on a tube needle or mandrel, flare a small back collar with a lighter if needed, and slide on any weight you plan to use. Build the fly as you would on a shank—tail/wing, body, rib, hackle, and throat—keeping head space for hardware. Slide on your chosen cone or disc, add a small drop of varnish or UV resin to seat it, then briefly kiss the front with heat to create a micro-flange that locks everything in place. For summer flies, run unweighted or with a light brass disc; for cold, pushy water, step up to heavier brass or tungsten-style cones and add a raw weight.
Finish by pushing a hook guide onto the back of the tube so it covers the rear flare. Thread your leader through the tube, tie on a short-shank single, double, or treble, and pull the knot into the guide so the hook rides just behind the dressing. This modular approach lets you swap hooks, adjust total length, and fine-tune sink rate without retying the fly.
Example Flies
Sunray Shadow Tube: A long, slim, high-mobility pattern for clear to slightly colored water. Tie on a light plastic tube with a black underwing and a long, mobile black or natural hair overwing, finished with a small Sonic Disc to keep the wing off the tube and stabilize the track. In low, warm flows go cone-less for maximum lift; in colder conditions add a small brass Turbo Cone and a short raw weight to keep it sub-surface without killing the swim. Fish it from 1.5 to 4 inches of total wing length with a size 6–8 single behind.
Temple Dog Willie Gunn: A classic black/yellow/orange Scandinavian color-way that loves peat-stained rivers. Build on a medium tube with a touch of flash, palmered spey hackle for life, and finish with a small or medium Turbo Cone to push water and flare the wing. Add a small internal weight for spring flows. Swap hook sizes 4–8 to match river height; the cone's turbulence keeps the wing alive on a slow swing.
Frances Tube: A compact, bottom-searching prawn-style tube for cold, heavy water. Use a short tube with a slim dubbed or floss body, stiff feelers, and a tungsten-leaning cone or a heavier raw weight slid onto the tube before tying. Keep the silhouette tight and the overall length short so it drops into buckets quickly; pair with a strong size 6–8 double hook and short leader to reduce leverage during the fight.
Cascade Tube: Bright, high-contrast black/yellow/orange with a touch of silver that excels in medium clarity. Tie on a light tube with a hot butt, silver body, soft throat hackle, and finish under a small brass conehead. In higher water, extend the tube length slightly and add a medium cone; in summer lows, shorten the dressing and go disc-only for more lift.
Why We Like It
The system is modular and predictable. Cones, discs, and hook guides fit the tubes cleanly, so you can switch from ultra-light summer tubes to deep-search winter profiles using the same tying workflow. Materials are durable in cold water, and the cones—especially Turbo Cones—create consistent turbulence that makes wings breathe without needing bulky hackle.
It also speeds up production. Pre-sized tubes and slide-on weights remove guesswork, and the color assortment covers the key salmon signals out of the box. Because the fly is decoupled from the hook, you fight fish on a short, strong hook that can be replaced instantly, extending the life of each pattern.
Comparable Materials
Eumer’s tube system offers a similar Scandinavian approach with solid brass cones and a wide tube diameter range; it’s rugged and widely available, though the fit between parts can vary slightly across batches. HMH’s Tube Fly Starter setups are versatile and budget-friendly, with mandrels and generic tubing that accept many brands’ cones, but they require more tinkering to match diameters. Compared with both, the Pro Sportfisher kit emphasizes tighter tolerances and hydrodynamic cones/discs (like Turbo and Sonic) that make it easier to achieve repeatable action across sizes.
