Original: $44.99
-65%$44.99
$15.75The Story
The Pro Sportfisher Predator Tube Tying Kit brings together oversized, heat-stable tube bodies and matching components built for big, water-pushing streamers. Designed for pike, musky, and other apex predators, it lets you tie large, balanced profiles that cast well, land softly for their size, and stand up to teeth and structure. Because it’s a tube system, you can swap or replace hooks without sacrificing the fly—handy when fish chew through wire or you want to fine-tune hook style and size to the situation.
Pro Sportfisher’s modular approach means the tubes accept the brand’s cones, softheads, and discs so you can quickly change sink rate, silhouette, and turbulence. The larger bore tubes are easy to mount on a needle or pin vise adapter, and the junction tubing grips securely for clean, in-line trailing-hook rigging. The kit format simplifies selection by bundling sizes and colors that cover most predator streamer needs without a deep dive into individual SKUs.
How to Use It
Mount a tube on your tube needle or adapter and lay a short thread base where the junction tubing will seat. Tie in your tail materials (bucktail, schlappen, rabbit, synthetics) and build forward in layers, tapering the profile so it tracks straight. Keep materials sparse near the rear to prevent fouling, and use denser shoulders up front to hold shape and move water. When the body is complete, seat your chosen cone or softhead with a small step of thread to lock it in place; a touch of thin UV resin at transitions adds durability without bulk.
Cut the tube to length with a clean, square edge, then lightly flare the rear with brief heat so the junction tubing can bite and stay put. Fit junction tubing to the back of the fly and insert your wire or fluorocarbon bite tippet and hook, adjusting hook distance to sit just behind the tail. Test in water: if it rides too high, swap to a heavier cone; if it tips, shorten the rear loop or trim bulk. The system’s strength is quick tuning: different cones, discs, and tube diameters let you dial depth, push, and balance in minutes.
Example Flies
**Pike Bunny Tube**: A two-strip rabbit tail over a bucktail support with a wide shoulder of composite brush at the front, finished with a medium softhead. Tie sparse at the rear and use a short wire bite tippet to a 2/0 single. The tube keeps the mass forward so the fly breathes on the pause and tracks straight, while the softhead adds just enough resistance to keep the rabbit from collapsing.
**Sea-Run Intruder Tube**: Built on a mid-diameter tube with a trailing size 2 stinger, this Intruder uses an ostrich and rhea rear station, a thin dubbing loop body, and a front shoulder of schlappen under a small brass cone. It casts light for its size, sinks on a controlled angle, and the tube allows easy hook swaps when fishing from tide rips to softer edges.
**Musky Buford Tube**: Stack bucktail in reverse-tied collars to create the classic Buford wedge, then finish with a large cone to stabilize the head. The tube’s rigidity prevents collapse on hard strips, helping the wedge plane and kick. Run 60–80 lb bite wire to a 3/0 short-shank hook seated just behind the last collar to keep leverage off the hook during the fight.
Why We Like It
Tube flies shine for predators because they solve problems: they reduce hook leverage, let you replace dulled hooks, and keep the expensive, time-intensive part—the fly—safe. This kit leans into that with big-bore tubes that accept strong junction tubing and heavy cones, so you can build substantial profiles without compromising tracking or durability. Being able to relocate the hook also cuts fouling and increases hookups on short strikes.
The component compatibility is a time-saver. Mix and match cones, discs, and softheads to change sink rate and push without retieing a new fly. The tubes flare cleanly with gentle heat, the colors stay true when wet, and the system scales from 3-inch baitfish to 10-inch musky offerings using the same workflow. It’s efficient, tough, and adaptable—exactly what predator tying demands.
Comparable Materials
HMH Poly Tubes offer a durable, clear alternative that excels for salmon and steelhead and can be pushed into predator duty, but they’re generally slimmer and require more careful material tapering to hold very large heads; they also lack the same breadth of predator-specific cones and discs. FutureFly’s tube system is beautifully finished with precise cones and tidy colors, great for Scandinavian-style flies and seatrout, though their standard diameters skew smaller than typical musky or pike builds. Eumer’s tubes are robust and heat-friendly with solid color options; cross-compatibility is decent, but cone seat geometry and tubing fits can vary, so mixing brands may require testing to ensure secure assemblies.
Description
The Pro Sportfisher Predator Tube Tying Kit brings together oversized, heat-stable tube bodies and matching components built for big, water-pushing streamers. Designed for pike, musky, and other apex predators, it lets you tie large, balanced profiles that cast well, land softly for their size, and stand up to teeth and structure. Because it’s a tube system, you can swap or replace hooks without sacrificing the fly—handy when fish chew through wire or you want to fine-tune hook style and size to the situation.
Pro Sportfisher’s modular approach means the tubes accept the brand’s cones, softheads, and discs so you can quickly change sink rate, silhouette, and turbulence. The larger bore tubes are easy to mount on a needle or pin vise adapter, and the junction tubing grips securely for clean, in-line trailing-hook rigging. The kit format simplifies selection by bundling sizes and colors that cover most predator streamer needs without a deep dive into individual SKUs.
How to Use It
Mount a tube on your tube needle or adapter and lay a short thread base where the junction tubing will seat. Tie in your tail materials (bucktail, schlappen, rabbit, synthetics) and build forward in layers, tapering the profile so it tracks straight. Keep materials sparse near the rear to prevent fouling, and use denser shoulders up front to hold shape and move water. When the body is complete, seat your chosen cone or softhead with a small step of thread to lock it in place; a touch of thin UV resin at transitions adds durability without bulk.
Cut the tube to length with a clean, square edge, then lightly flare the rear with brief heat so the junction tubing can bite and stay put. Fit junction tubing to the back of the fly and insert your wire or fluorocarbon bite tippet and hook, adjusting hook distance to sit just behind the tail. Test in water: if it rides too high, swap to a heavier cone; if it tips, shorten the rear loop or trim bulk. The system’s strength is quick tuning: different cones, discs, and tube diameters let you dial depth, push, and balance in minutes.
Example Flies
**Pike Bunny Tube**: A two-strip rabbit tail over a bucktail support with a wide shoulder of composite brush at the front, finished with a medium softhead. Tie sparse at the rear and use a short wire bite tippet to a 2/0 single. The tube keeps the mass forward so the fly breathes on the pause and tracks straight, while the softhead adds just enough resistance to keep the rabbit from collapsing.
**Sea-Run Intruder Tube**: Built on a mid-diameter tube with a trailing size 2 stinger, this Intruder uses an ostrich and rhea rear station, a thin dubbing loop body, and a front shoulder of schlappen under a small brass cone. It casts light for its size, sinks on a controlled angle, and the tube allows easy hook swaps when fishing from tide rips to softer edges.
**Musky Buford Tube**: Stack bucktail in reverse-tied collars to create the classic Buford wedge, then finish with a large cone to stabilize the head. The tube’s rigidity prevents collapse on hard strips, helping the wedge plane and kick. Run 60–80 lb bite wire to a 3/0 short-shank hook seated just behind the last collar to keep leverage off the hook during the fight.
Why We Like It
Tube flies shine for predators because they solve problems: they reduce hook leverage, let you replace dulled hooks, and keep the expensive, time-intensive part—the fly—safe. This kit leans into that with big-bore tubes that accept strong junction tubing and heavy cones, so you can build substantial profiles without compromising tracking or durability. Being able to relocate the hook also cuts fouling and increases hookups on short strikes.
The component compatibility is a time-saver. Mix and match cones, discs, and softheads to change sink rate and push without retieing a new fly. The tubes flare cleanly with gentle heat, the colors stay true when wet, and the system scales from 3-inch baitfish to 10-inch musky offerings using the same workflow. It’s efficient, tough, and adaptable—exactly what predator tying demands.
Comparable Materials
HMH Poly Tubes offer a durable, clear alternative that excels for salmon and steelhead and can be pushed into predator duty, but they’re generally slimmer and require more careful material tapering to hold very large heads; they also lack the same breadth of predator-specific cones and discs. FutureFly’s tube system is beautifully finished with precise cones and tidy colors, great for Scandinavian-style flies and seatrout, though their standard diameters skew smaller than typical musky or pike builds. Eumer’s tubes are robust and heat-friendly with solid color options; cross-compatibility is decent, but cone seat geometry and tubing fits can vary, so mixing brands may require testing to ensure secure assemblies.
