Original: $7.99
-65%$7.99
$2.80The Story
Hareline Fly Tying Head Cement is a clear, penetrating finish designed to lock down thread wraps and build a clean, durable head without bulky buildup. Made by Hareline, it flows thin, wicks quickly into fibers, and dries to a smooth, glossy finish that resists abrasion and fraying on the water.
It comes ready to use in a bottle with a brush-cap, making it easy to apply precise amounts at the vise. Whether you're sealing a whip finish on a size 18 dry or protecting a streamer’s collar, it delivers dependable hold and a tidy look with minimal added weight.
How to Use It
After finishing your wraps, wick most of the cement off the brush or bodkin on the bottle’s lip—less is more. Touch the applicator to the head or immediately adjacent wraps and let capillary action pull the cement in. Rotate the fly or keep it level for 10–20 seconds to prevent runs. For a high-gloss head, apply two very thin coats rather than one heavy coat, allowing the first to dry before the second. Avoid flooding hackle or marabou; if any creeps into fibers, blot immediately with a clean tip.
If you prefer a faster soak-in or finer control, transfer a drop to a bodkin and micro-dot the wraps. When thinning is needed, use the compatible thinner recommended on the label; matching the solvent to the formula prevents clouding and ensures proper cure. Store the bottle tightly sealed to minimize thickening, and periodically clean the brush with the appropriate thinner for consistent flow.
Example Flies
Adams Dry Fly: After whip finishing just behind the eye on a size 14–18 Adams, touch a bodkin-loaded micro-drop to the thread head. The thin cement wicks under the hackle stems without matting fibers, locks the head against unraveling, and preserves a neat, tapered profile that helps the fly track correctly.
Pheasant Tail Nymph: On a size 16 PT with a copper rib and peacock thorax, a light coat on the head and front wraps adds abrasion resistance for dredging riffles. A second, ultra-thin pass along the wingcase seam can help keep the shellcase edges from lifting after multiple fish without adding noticeable bulk.
Woolly Bugger: For a conehead or beadhead Bugger in sizes 6–10, cement the final collar wraps behind the bead to keep the hackle locked when scraping bottom or stripping through wood. A thin, penetrating coat prevents the hackle from unwinding and keeps the fly fishing after repeated grabs.
Clouser Minnow: When setting dumbbell eyes on a size 2–6 Clouser, add a thin topcoat to the cross wraps after they’re snug. It reinforces the thread dams that hold eye alignment and secures the bucktail tie-in points. Use sparingly so the cement doesn’t migrate into the hair bundle and stiffen the wing excessively.
Why We Like It
It penetrates thread quickly, then levels into a clean, glossy head that looks professional and stands up to teeth, rocks, and repeated casting. Because it flows thin, you can secure small patterns without smothering proportions, yet it builds to a showy, lacquer-like finish on larger streamers with a second coat.
The brush-cap is convenient at the vise, drying is predictable, and the cured finish stays clear and tight around fibers. It’s a simple, cost-effective way to add durability without special lights or bulky buildup, making it a go-to finish for everyday trout, warmwater, and salt patterns.
Comparable Materials
Loon Hard Head (water-based, thicker, low-odor) builds a slightly softer, flexible shell and cleans up with water; it’s great when ventilation is limited but penetrates less. Sally Hansen Hard As Nails is inexpensive and durable, with a bit more body per coat—popular for glossy heads and nail-polish color accents. Wapsi Head Cement is a close, traditional alternative in a similar thin, penetrating style. UV resins like Solarez Thin-Hard add instant-cure convenience and a glassy shell but increase bulk and require a UV light. Thin CA glues (e.g., Zap-type) bite instantly and penetrate well but can be brittle and less forgiving around soft hackles.
hareline head cement vs loon hard head
Hareline’s head cement is typically thinner and more penetrating, ideal for locking wraps with minimal buildup and creating crisp, glossy heads in one or two light coats. Loon Hard Head, being water-based and thicker, excels when you want a smooth, slightly flexible surface with very low odor and soap-and-water cleanup. Choose Hareline for quick wicking on small flies, tight heads, and deep penetration; choose Loon when you prefer a softer, buildable shell, easier cleanup, and reduced fumes, accepting a touch more bulk and a slightly slower dry.
Description
Hareline Fly Tying Head Cement is a clear, penetrating finish designed to lock down thread wraps and build a clean, durable head without bulky buildup. Made by Hareline, it flows thin, wicks quickly into fibers, and dries to a smooth, glossy finish that resists abrasion and fraying on the water.
It comes ready to use in a bottle with a brush-cap, making it easy to apply precise amounts at the vise. Whether you're sealing a whip finish on a size 18 dry or protecting a streamer’s collar, it delivers dependable hold and a tidy look with minimal added weight.
How to Use It
After finishing your wraps, wick most of the cement off the brush or bodkin on the bottle’s lip—less is more. Touch the applicator to the head or immediately adjacent wraps and let capillary action pull the cement in. Rotate the fly or keep it level for 10–20 seconds to prevent runs. For a high-gloss head, apply two very thin coats rather than one heavy coat, allowing the first to dry before the second. Avoid flooding hackle or marabou; if any creeps into fibers, blot immediately with a clean tip.
If you prefer a faster soak-in or finer control, transfer a drop to a bodkin and micro-dot the wraps. When thinning is needed, use the compatible thinner recommended on the label; matching the solvent to the formula prevents clouding and ensures proper cure. Store the bottle tightly sealed to minimize thickening, and periodically clean the brush with the appropriate thinner for consistent flow.
Example Flies
Adams Dry Fly: After whip finishing just behind the eye on a size 14–18 Adams, touch a bodkin-loaded micro-drop to the thread head. The thin cement wicks under the hackle stems without matting fibers, locks the head against unraveling, and preserves a neat, tapered profile that helps the fly track correctly.
Pheasant Tail Nymph: On a size 16 PT with a copper rib and peacock thorax, a light coat on the head and front wraps adds abrasion resistance for dredging riffles. A second, ultra-thin pass along the wingcase seam can help keep the shellcase edges from lifting after multiple fish without adding noticeable bulk.
Woolly Bugger: For a conehead or beadhead Bugger in sizes 6–10, cement the final collar wraps behind the bead to keep the hackle locked when scraping bottom or stripping through wood. A thin, penetrating coat prevents the hackle from unwinding and keeps the fly fishing after repeated grabs.
Clouser Minnow: When setting dumbbell eyes on a size 2–6 Clouser, add a thin topcoat to the cross wraps after they’re snug. It reinforces the thread dams that hold eye alignment and secures the bucktail tie-in points. Use sparingly so the cement doesn’t migrate into the hair bundle and stiffen the wing excessively.
Why We Like It
It penetrates thread quickly, then levels into a clean, glossy head that looks professional and stands up to teeth, rocks, and repeated casting. Because it flows thin, you can secure small patterns without smothering proportions, yet it builds to a showy, lacquer-like finish on larger streamers with a second coat.
The brush-cap is convenient at the vise, drying is predictable, and the cured finish stays clear and tight around fibers. It’s a simple, cost-effective way to add durability without special lights or bulky buildup, making it a go-to finish for everyday trout, warmwater, and salt patterns.
Comparable Materials
Loon Hard Head (water-based, thicker, low-odor) builds a slightly softer, flexible shell and cleans up with water; it’s great when ventilation is limited but penetrates less. Sally Hansen Hard As Nails is inexpensive and durable, with a bit more body per coat—popular for glossy heads and nail-polish color accents. Wapsi Head Cement is a close, traditional alternative in a similar thin, penetrating style. UV resins like Solarez Thin-Hard add instant-cure convenience and a glassy shell but increase bulk and require a UV light. Thin CA glues (e.g., Zap-type) bite instantly and penetrate well but can be brittle and less forgiving around soft hackles.
hareline head cement vs loon hard head
Hareline’s head cement is typically thinner and more penetrating, ideal for locking wraps with minimal buildup and creating crisp, glossy heads in one or two light coats. Loon Hard Head, being water-based and thicker, excels when you want a smooth, slightly flexible surface with very low odor and soap-and-water cleanup. Choose Hareline for quick wicking on small flies, tight heads, and deep penetration; choose Loon when you prefer a softer, buildable shell, easier cleanup, and reduced fumes, accepting a touch more bulk and a slightly slower dry.
